Lunch at the Palácio Chiado

Introduction

In our last post we wrote about the elements that combine to create memorable meals: the food, the service, the ambience, and the people we’re with.  When three or four of these elements are exceptional, the experience of dining out becomes a memorable meal.  

We noted that the experience is not guaranteed to be repeatable.  A great meal in a restaurant one night might be just average the next.  Several readers commented on the number of variables a restaurant owner, manager, or chef has to balance every day.  If just one or two are out of whack, the whole experience can change. 

It’s like they say in the ads for mutual funds, “Past performance does not guarantee future results”.  So we know there’s an element of risk whenever we go out to eat.  But we keep doing it anyway, because the rewards are worth it.

When our friends Melinda and LIvio suggested we have lunch with them at the Palácio Chiado in Lisbon, Melinda added the caveat, “It was really good last time we ate there.  I hope it will be good this time.”  We looked at the restaurant’s web site and were hooked almost immediately.  We were IN!

Here are our impressions, organized around the four elements.

A brief history of the Palácio Chiado

The Palácio Chiado is an actual 18th century palace with an interesting history.  It was built in 1781 by a wealthy businessman, Joaquim Pedro Quintela, the 1st Baron of Quintela  His son, also named Joaquim Pedro Quintela, the 2nd Baron of Quintela, lived in the palace for many years.

The younger Pedro made and lost large fortunes throughout his life.  He was a supporter of the Liberal army (the victors) in the Portuguese Civil War and was granted the title Count of Farrobo after the war.  He was a practiced musician and patron of the arts.  He was also known for throwing lavish, excessive parties.  Today, the Portuguese word farrobodó means a big, raucous party.

The palace had multiple residents and owners throughout the years.  Count Farrobo lost most of his fortune late in life and the palace was auctioned off after his death in 1869.  A later owner made significant upgrades.  In the early 20th century, the Museu Instrumental Português was located in the palace.  Later, the Instituto de Arte e Decoração – the Institute of Art and Design – leased the palace.

In 2014 the Palácio was acquired by three partners who set out to create a unique dining and entertainment complex.  They spent nearly two years restoring the interior and opened in 2016 with seven restaurants and bars.  This has since been scaled down to just the SALLA bar on the ground floor, one restaurant upstairs, and several dining rooms that can be reserved for private events.

Here’s a two minute video tour that highlights the detail involved in the restoration and the final result.

The Ambience

When we entered, we were greeted by a smiling hostess who directed us through the SALLA bar, with its minimalist decor, bright red chairs, and neon sign above the bar.  We went upstairs to the restaurant.

The wide marble staircase sets the tone for the rest of the palace, with a stained glass panel at the landing.  Ornate paintings hang on either side, and there is a mural on the ceiling above the stairs.  

At the top of the stairs we entered a small dining room with a bar, all watched over by Marquis, a gold lion suspended from the ceiling.

Everywhere we looked, the walls and ceiling were covered with intricate paintings and frescoes that have been meticulously restored.

In the next room is a second, larger, bar.  At this point we began to wonder, “Is this a restaurant or a party palace?”  With a three-to-one ratio of bars to restaurant,  it seemed clear that the spirit of farrobodó is in the DNA of the place.

There are seats in the window alcoves that have a view of the small park across the street.  It’s a pleasant place to sit and have a drink while waiting for your table.

The dining room is small, but equally impressive.  It has dark red walls, a vaulted ceiling with an ornate painting, and several large round booths.  Tall windows let in sunlight to illuminate the room. 

The overall effect is rich, warm, and inviting.  This is not a staged or dusty relic of another age.  It is a palace intended to be lived in and enjoyed today.

And from what Melinda and Livio told us, it’s a place that gets noisy at night when live music is performed.  There’s that spirit of farrobodó again.

The People We’re With

This was our second time dining out with Melinda and Livio, so we were still getting acquainted. We had met them at a wine tasting several weeks earlier and discovered some shared interests. They are an international couple. She is a writer and photographer, an American who moved to Italy as a young woman. He is a Swiss engineer who managed several manufacturing businesses in Italy. They met and married in Milan and lived in Italy for over 30 years before moving to Portugal last year.

Our conversation over lunch was wide-ranging and frequently punctuated with laughter. We left as new old friends.

The Service

The service was good, with just a few rough spots.  We had been greeted at the entrance and directed upstairs to the bar.   When we got upstairs, we were met by another member of the staff who had been alerted that we were coming.  She was friendly and welcoming as she showed us to one of the window seats.   (We had arrived early so Mike could order an Old Fashioned.  He is not in the habit of having cocktails at lunch time, but Old Fashioneds are hard to find in Portugal.)  

When our friends arrived, we got up to go into the dining room, but were stopped by the manager who said, “NO! You can’t go in there without a reservation!”  When we explained that we did have a reservation, he was immediately very apologetic.  The server in the bar had been notified.  She knew we were there for lunch and were waiting for our friends.  But the message didn’t get to the manager.  Regardless, he could have handled the moment with a bit more tact and less confrontation.

Once seated, we were greeted by Redmond, our server.  He was wearing a badge with his name, followed by “Trainee”.  He was young and a bit nervous, but very attentive and friendly.  He kept water and wine glasses filled throughout the meal and accommodated a few oddball requests (see “dessert” below).  Based on our experience, I would expect that his “Trainee” badge could soon be retired.  He did a nice job.

Midway through the meal, another staffer came through the dining room collecting empty plates and glasses.  She came up behind Mike and took away his unfinished cocktail, without asking.  A minor irritant.

The Food

We knew going in that the food was pricey.  This is one of those places that rates a “$$$$” on the travel sites, so it was not going to be a typical “let’s go out to lunch” lunch.  The menu is the same at lunch and at dinner.  The couvert – different breads and butters along with marinated olives – was €7.  Starters ranged from €14 – €22 and the main courses were €19 – €64.

But when the food arrived, the first thing we noticed was the near perfect presentation.  Everything looked delicious and was beautifully plated.   We knew then we were going to have a great meal.

Everything came out at the proper temperature.  The duck, shrimp, and prawns were hot; the guacamole was cool.  

Along with the meal we shared a bottle of Herdade do Peso Reserva, a red wine from the Alentejo region of Portugal.  It is a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Toriga Nacional (both varietals are commonly found in Portuguese wine), and Syrah.  It was served chilled and was an excellent complement to our meal.

What’s for dessert?

In order to give a full report on lunch at the Palácio Chiado, we had to have dessert.  (Yes, it’s a tough job, but we go all out for our readers!)

Mary had the Chocolate dome, a large sphere of chocolate with a hazelnut praline and salted caramel. It was rich, gooey, and delicious.  Melinda ordered the Mille-feuilles. She was intrigued by the combination of caramel sauce and lime sorbet, and said it was very good..

Livio threw a curve to our waiter when he asked for “lemon sorbet with vodka”.  When Redmond looked puzzled, Livio said, “Just ask them to make it.  I know they will.”  After a bit more back-and-forth, they settled on an order of lemon sorbet with a shot of vodka on the side.  So it was going to be a sort of a do-it-yourself dessert.  After listening to the conversation, Mike decided he wanted to try it, too.

  The sorbet was served in a little wafer cup with a strawberry sauce decorating the plate. 

When Mike poured the vodka, the wafer dissolved and the drink flowed across the plate. He said it was an interesting combination, but that the sorbet by itself would have been enough.  Melinda told us that in Italy, this is a common dessert known as sorbetto al limone con vodka that is usually served in a bowl.

Our overall assessment

We’ve begun asking ourselves several questions at the end of a meal out:  Would you go back to this restaurant again?  If you did, would you eat the same thing again?  Would you recommend the restaurant to friends?  

We agreed that we would go back to the Palácio Chiado for special occasions or with guests.  We might not eat the same thing, simply because we’d want to try other things on the menu.  But we would suggest the dishes we ate to friends and relatives.  We would also recommend the restaurant for people looking for a one-of-a-kind dining experience.  Reservations can be made online, quickly and easily.

Our lunch at Palácio Chiado ticked all the boxes to make it a memorable meal.  

Lunch for our party of four was €204 – high, but less than we anticipated. And while €50 each is well above our typical lunch tab, we thought it was a good value for the quality experience we had.

There’s another Portuguese phrase associated with the Palacio Chiado – à grande e à francesa – “in a grand style”.  That sums it up pretty well.  

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Thanks for joining us on this outing.

What memorable meal have you had that you’d like to have again? Share your story in the comments below or by using the Contact Us form.

Until next week / Até a próxima semana

Mary and Mike

The Cook and The Writer