Even though we’re living in Porto now, we can still act like tourists when we go out to explore the city. The difference is we don’t have to rush to see everything in a day or two. We can take our time, enjoy the sights, and make notes about what we want to visit again on another day.
One day last week we took a walking tour of the city center. Our starting point for the walk was the Avenida dos Aliados, the Avenue of the Allies. I’ve read two stories about how the street got its name.
One version says the street was named to commemorate a 14th century treaty between Britain and Portugal – the oldest alliance in the world still in force. The other story says the name refers to the Allied countries who fought together in World War I. Portugal was a neutral party for 1 ½ years, then entered the war on the side of the Allies in 1916. That was the same year that the initial construction of the Avenida began.
Both stories work for me.
The Avenida runs north/south on either side of a wide esplanade. The original design was done by the British architect Barry Parker in 1915. Parker proposed a neoclassical style (think The White House or US Capitol). But the final design of the area and the buildings that flank the Avenida was heavily influenced by other architects who favored a Parisian “Beaux Arts” style (think the Metropolitan Museum of Art or Grand Central Terminal in New York City).
(I’m not really an architecture nerd, but I lived in Columbus, Indiana for over 20 years. Many of the 20th century’s great architects designed buildings there so I’m attuned to the impact that great designs can have on a community.)
I’ve heard it said that nothing is flat in Porto, and the Avenida is no exception. The highest point is the north end, where the City Hall (Câmara Municipal) is located.
City Hall was designed by Correia da Silva, a well-known Porto architect. Construction began in 1920 and continued for over 20 years. The design was controversial and at one point during construction, city officials recommended demolishing the structure, saying its Beaux Arts style was “old fashioned”. Several changes were made to the design, including the removal of one floor in the 70 meter tower so that the building was not taller than the Clérigos church, several blocks away.
The building stands proudly at the top of the Avenida dos Aliados.
The avenue is lined with buildings that reflect a variety of architectural styles – art deco, Beaux Arts, and Neoclassical – all dating from the early 20th century. All were built from granite.
One building that captured my attention was the “Unic” building. It was originally built as the home of the National Insurance Company. The Edificio Seguradora “A Nacional” was designed by Jose Marques da Silva and was completed in 1924.
It now houses a youth clothing store, though we could not tell if it was open or not.
At the south end of Avenida do Aliados is the Praça da Liberdade, or Liberty Square. In the middle of the square is a statue of King Pedro IV. Pedro reigned from 1798 until 1834 and was a champion of limited constitutional monarchy in Portugal. The statue depicts him on horseback, holding a copy of the Constitution.
On the day we visited, there was construction underway in the square below King Pedro’s feet. There is a lot of construction going on in Porto, just like almost every other city in the norther hemisphere. It’s summer – time to get the outdoor work done. So I’ve borrowed a photo that shows the entire Avenida.
As we walked down the plaza, we both looked around and said, at the same time, “It feels like we’re really in Europe.”
Across the street from the statue of King Pedro is the Imperial McDonald’s that we wrote about in our last post.
There was more to our walk that day, but we’ll save it for another post.
Until next time / Até à próxima,
Mike
The Writer
I love the architecture! Thanks for the descriptions and background info. It’s wonderful that you both have the time to savor it all. I look forward to each post. ?
Hi Darla,
Thanks for your comments. There is so much to learn about the city and its history. We’re soaking it up as fast as we can, while still moving at a leisurely pace.
Our best to you and Ronnie,
Mike
Thanks for all your wonderful updates! I find myself waiting anxiously to find a new adventure in my Gmail. I’d love to see some pics of your apartment- the street view from your apartment window and then a view of the apartment from the street! You’re sounding very happy and content!! ??
Hi Jayne,
Mary is planning to do a post on life in our apartment. There are a couple pictures of our street and building in our first Portugal post. We’ll have some more shortly. Thanks for following the blog and making the suggestions.
Regards to you and Charlie,
Mike
Looks like a wonderful city. Reminded me of Barcelona where we rented an apartment on the main street for 10 days with another couple. Had time to explore. You can certainly take your time and go back again and again to favorite spots. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!!
Hey Alice,
Barcelona was one of our favorite places, too. We’re hoping to go back there some year, now that we’re closer! Our best to you and Earl.
Mike
I love it! So much history. As we prep to do something very American with your friends tonight, Jimmy Buffet at Deer Creek, I was thinking about the history of a very different place. Also, a song I can’t get out of my head these days is Chris Stapleton’s “Starting Over”. I’ve decided it’s yours and Mary’s theme song – check it out.
Hey Bonnie,
Enjoy the show. We’ve never seen Buffet live. That should be a lot of fun. We still have Spotify, so I’ll find the Stapleton song. Give our regards to your fellow Parrotheads.
Mike
Sounds like a perfect day to explore the city and check out the History of Porto. I’ve taken so many wonderful vacations in Europe, but always wished we had more time in each location and time to sleep in and relax!
Glad you are able to take time to enjoy and savor each day you are there!!
My favorite trip/vacation was traveling with my friend Cyndi for 2 weeks in Melbourne, Australia visiting and staying with friends who live there. The most memorable way to discover and explore with locals who know the best sites and restaurants.
Live, Love, Explore!!
Thanks, Sue. We are relishing the opportunity to move slowly and soak it all in.
Mike
I know I’m in Europe when there’s a towel warmer in my bathroom…such lively glimpses and descriptions-thank you! Special request: a picture of the Sé cathedral,where, God willing, Mary and I will pick up our credential for the Bom Caminho ??
Hey Rosa,
We’ve been close to the Sé a couple times, but haven’t seen it yet. We’ll continue our walks around the city center and will get there soon. A picture will follow when we do.
Mike
Oooh, you included a map. Nice!
Hi Shay. Yes, I wanted to provide some context and a sense of scale. But it took a while to find a good map. I’m glad you like it.
Mike