Our Portuguese Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving in Portugal is Different

Thanksgiving Day in Portugal – Dia de Ação de Graças – is the same day as in the US,  but it’s not a holiday.  On Thursday, life here went on as normal.  We knew it wasn’t a holiday when we saw a mailman hustling down the street.

As Thanksgiving approached, we faced the challenge all immigrants face – how to retain the traditions of the culture we left behind in a new place where they are not shared.  

We thought about trying to do a small-scale Thanksgiving dinner.  Mary found lots of recipes for delicious looking sheet pan dinners that could be prepared in our tiny kitchen.   But we gave up on the idea when we couldn’t find two key ingredients:  a turkey breast and cranberries.  We might have been able to find them if we’d been willing to chase all over town.  (We’d seen packages of fried onions at IKEA, of all places.) But we decided to take ourselves out to a nice dinner, instead.  

While we were thinking about where to go, Mary saw a notice about a Thanksgiving dinner being done at a local restaurant.  It was posted in a Facebook forum for expats in Porto, so we figured there would be other Americans there.  The menu had all the traditional items, but with descriptions that promised there would be something different about them.  (Example:  Portobello green bean casserole – not like your Auntie’s.)

The menu even said “bring containers to take home the traditional leftovers”.  We were intrigued.

Mike called on Tuesday to make a reservation.  The owner of the restaurant told him that they were fully booked on Thursday night but had decided to do a second dinner on Friday because they had to turn so many people away.  Mike made the reservation.

So on Thursday, we went about our usual routines, with the additions of some notes from friends and family members.  They shared pictures of their feasts.  We bided our time and sent them happy notes in reply.

Dinner at Sim Ou Sopas

If you were trying to design a place where people could enter as strangers, share a delicious meal, and leave as friends, you could use Sim Ou Sopas as a pattern.  

Solanja Ribeiro opened the restaurant in June of 2021.  It is a small rectangular space.  On the right side are two long tables with comfortable chairs.  Each table would seat 10 to 12 people.  At the end of the room is a large open wine rack.  On the left side is a storeroom (behind a wall) and the open kitchen.

The rough stone walls are framed by black columns.  The ceiling and kitchen trim panels are also painted black, which highlights the stainless steel and light wood of the kitchen cabinets.  It is a modern, minimalist space that exudes warmth and comfort.

Solanja is a striking figure – tall, with dark hair, and on this night, bright red lips.  Her face is expressive – one moment serious, the next lit with a quick smile or a mischievous grin.  She was in constant motion throughout our visit, moving between the kitchen and the dining area, talking with the guests, and generally radiating good humor and warmth.  

The name of the restaurant – Sim Ou Sopas – translates literally to “Yes or soups”.  It comes from a Portuguese colloquialism used when someone can’t make a decision, as in   

“Honey, we don’t have time to wait anymore… it’s yes or soups!”

Mike said that it was like where he grew up in Kentucky and someone would say, “It’s time to fish or cut bait.” 

Over the course of the evening, Solanja told us the story of how the restaurant came to be.  She explained that the name reflected her personality – one who made decisions and moved forward.  She had worked as a fashion designer for many years.  In that job, she was able to travel extensively.  But when COVID hit and Portugal was locked down, she decided to deliberately change her life.  While she said she had no prior experience in restaurants, she wanted to try it.  

She leveraged her talents as a designer to create the space.  What she wanted was not a restaurant, she said, but a dining room where friends could meet.

She hired her assistant, Diana, who brought restaurant experience.  Solanja said she had originally intended to hire a chef to handle all the work in the kitchen, while she worked in the dining room.  But that changed as she got started and discovered that she liked creating and preparing the food.  

Her business got an early boost from her neighbors.  They were a welcoming community who referred customers and supported her efforts.  The hairstylist next door kept a brochure in her salon and promoted the restaurant with her clients. The florist down the block brings her flowers.  The mechanic in the scooter garage up the street helps her with repairs.  “The whole block treats me like family”, she said.

A Memorable Meal With New Friends

When we entered the restaurant, we were invited to the rear of the room, next to the kitchen.  Diana served us each a glass of Thanksgiving sangria.  She and Solanja welcomed and told us about their experience with the first dinner the previous evening.  They had counted on about 30 people – the maximum number that could be seated comfortably.  But guests arrived, bringing others with them.  (“Oh, my friend here just arrived in town.  I wanted her to join us.”)  

Solange said that the crowd grew to 40 people.  Some were seated on stools at the kitchen counter.  She said the place was “crazy” all night, and that some guests stayed until 2:00am.  

They were happy, she said, that the Friday group was much smaller.  “It let’s us focus on giving the best service.”

As we got started, there were only four of us there for dinner.  We met Antonia and Jorge, who identified themselves as “Candian-Portuguese”.  Their families were originally from Portugual, but they had lived in Canada for many years and held dual citizenship.  They had moved back to Porto four years ago, after also living in Ireland, Germany and several other countries. We enjoyed sharing dinner and getting to know them.

Another group of five entered the restaurant as we sat down. They sat at the back table. We learned later that they were regulars, friends of Solanja’s.

Now for the Food!

The first dish to arrive at the table was a focaccia with candied pecans, accompanied by a small bowl of berries.  (What kind?)  A few minutes later, two larger foccacias were placed on the table.  Each was round and in the center was a mash made of butternut squash and pumpkin.  All were delicious, and we could have made a full meal from them.

But there was more.  We were served small plates with bacon-wrapped dates and little dishes with bourbon-soaked raisins.  What’s not to like?

The final starters were a bowl of fresh vegetable slices with ranch dip and plate with potato chips surrounding a ramekin of french onion dip.  Both dips were unexpected, happy reminders of tastes we have not had in Portugal.

The next course was a lovely salad made with baby greens, wine-poached pears, bleu cheese, and hazelnuts.  It was lightly dressed with a vinaigrette.  

Next, we were treated to a very unique and flavorful sweet potato soup made with toasted pumpkin seeds and chipotle peppers.  The richness of the soup was enhanced by the smokiness of the chipotles.  Solanja said she had the peppers shipped in from the US.

A dish of warm mac and cheese got us ready for the main course – a free-range turkey that had been brined and cooked slowly.  The technique she used resulted in meat that was moist and perfectly cooked.  Solanja handed Mike a carving knife and invited him to carve the bird.  He did a credible job.

We enjoyed the turkey with the green bean casserole, this one loaded with portobello mushrooms, a bread stuffing with chestnuts, mashed sweet potatoes and a cranberry-bourbon relish.  

By now it was past 11:00pm and the four of us at the table were laughing and talking like we’d known each other for years.  There was no room for anything else to eat, but here came Solanja with treats we couldn’t pass up. First was a traditional Portuguese Christmas dessert called formigos.  Hers was made with bread, tea, nuts, and cinnamon.  It was similar to bread pudding, with nuts.  It was just barely sweet.  Antonia and Jorge said their families had also made it at Christmas.

Then we each had a sliver of cake. Mary tried the roasted pumpkin and chestnut cheesecake. I had a bite of carrot walnut cake. Both were delicious.

And Then…The Leftovers

The table was cleared as we continued talking.  Solanja then asked if we had brought containers for leftovers.  We had, and she took them away to the kitchen.  A few minutes later, she brought them back, filled to the rims.  And over the next few minutes, she kept returning with small packages wrapped in foil.  “You must take some relish”, she’d say, or “Here’s some stuffing”.  

Who could refuse.

Finally, around 11:45, we said goodbye to our new friends and climbed into an Uber for the ride back home.  We were full – with food, with wine, but most of all with gratitude and appreciation for the people we met, who welcomed strangers into their space and treated us like family.

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How Was Your Holiday?

What new food or experience did you have at Thanksgiving this year? What or who are you especially thankful for? Leave a comment below or send one in via the Contact Form.

Be sure to save room for dessert! / Certifique-se de economizar espaço para a sobremesa!

Mary and Mike

The Cook and The Writer

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If You Decide to Go:

Sim Ou Sopa
Rua Cândida Sá de Albergaria 232
4150-184 Porto
+351 932 909 997
https://www.facebook.com/Sim-ou-Sopas-334845827930994

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